It’s about time. Time to turn the page, to close this file and to move on. We came back from our trip in Patagonia 6 months ago and often I checked my notes written in El Chalten. Should I really post that? Is it really necessary to express such a disappointment, to try to explain the disillusion felt when an old dream is confronted to a frustrating reality?
Indeed, El Chalten was supposed to be the highlight and the end of the trip. Hanging out around the Cerro Fitz Roy needed to be amazing. And it wasn’t. The big and ugly touristic business has already changed it: tourism has taken over this part of Patagonia and it is difficult to find a less traveled path without knowing someone in town. Except if you are willing to pay the price.
Reading an article in the French newspaper “Le Monde”, I’m convinced to finally put an end to this trip (in French) :
Leaving the old itinerary to reach the Laguna de los 14, new trail – Loin de l’ancien itinéraire en montant vers la Laguna de los 14 sur le nouveau sentier.
It perfectly illustrates what you can find in El Chalten. Everybody arrives and lives the same “adventure”, hikes the same crowded trail, drinks the same beer, eats the same diner… before leaving. One has to make it quick to appreciate. By staying, the perspective is immediately different and then, the only choice is to accept… Or to leave, to seek something else. But around, everything is made for the large majority. Just enter the “Casa de Guia” to ask for some advices and you would be answered that here they are selling a service, they are not giving anything. Therefore, one must accept to fit in the mold and hike the classic trails in the middle of the crowd, accept all the scams set up by this biased system. It could quickly become unbearable. Jumping on a less traveled path requires a different organization… At least we tried…
Big, steep, hard. What a legendary mountain ! – Grand, raide, difficile. Quelle montagne de légende !
Then, should we ignore El Chalten? Maybe should we just accept to spend a little amount of time there like everybody else? Nature is right there, and allows most to appreciate unique landscapes that would be hardly accessible anywhere else. But should we really be able to enjoy everything so easily? I will definitely leave this place to others who might enjoy it. We came here to seek something that doesn’t exist anymore. What we found is something we try to avoid in general. Maybe we were expecting too much?
Of course, pictures are looking good, but 6 months later I still don’t feel much when I look at them.
Awesome bivy, alone ! – Superbe bivouac seuls !
Climbing here? In the mountains the rock looks stunning, but is it reasonable to wait weeks just to be able to touch it? For some probably. There is an incredible number of stunning places where it is possible to climb under the sun too…
I finally wish we spent more time in the Chilean Tierra del Fuego, a place still quiet, wild and beautiful. Or in the fjords, in the sea. The last trips in Peru were so intense that I feel again this need to share those experiences. But before doing so, I had the feeling that I needed to bring a closure to this old dream that probably should have stayed one. The curious reader could find my travel notes on this link…
Perito Moreno
After rain and snow, a decent sunset as a reward – Après la pluie et la neige, un coucher de soleil sympathique en récompense.
On the morning the creek is much easier to cross ! – Le matin le torrent est beaucoup plus facile à traverser !
Water is drinkable right from the creek… yet you have to buy plastic bottles in the restaurants… – L’eau est potable directement au torrent… et pourtant les restaurants ne vendent que des bouteilles en plastique…
Big, large, impressive : the Perito Moreno glacier
Diaporama – Slideshow :
Perito Moreno
Stunning glacier landscape with icy blue ice, surrounding mountains, and a calm turquoise lake, captured by Olivier Steiner Photography.
Falling
Stunning glacier scene with ice breaking off into vibrant turquoise water, surrounded by towering snow-covered mountains, captured by Olivier Steiner Photography.
Perito Moreno
A striking black and white photograph of a large iceberg floating in the ocean, showcasing natural beauty and contrast.
Perito Moreno
Stunning black and white landscape photograph of a mountain peak and icy glacier, showcasing natural beauty and rugged terrain.
Perito Moreno, ice of 70 meters high, diving into the lake - De la glace sur 70 mètres de hauteur plongeant dans le lac.
A stunning landscape featuring a massive glacier with vibrant blue ice, surrounded by mountains under a dramatic sky, captured by Olivier Steiner Photography.
Perito Moreno, ice of 70 meters high, diving into the lake - De la glace sur 70 mètres de hauteur plongeant dans le lac.
Stunning black and white photograph of a glacier surrounded by mountains, highlighting natural ice formations and dramatic sky.
Perito Moreno
A solitary, leafless tree stands on rocky terrain with a towering blue glacier in the background, capturing Patagonia's dramatic landscape.
A last look. Were we really supposed to come here ? - Un dernier regard. Etions nous vraiment supposé venir ici ?
A stunning mountain scene with towering peaks, vibrant green fields, and a dynamic sky, showcasing the beauty of nature and outdoor photography.
Water is drinkable right from the creek... yet you have to buy plastic bottles in the restaurants... - L'eau est potable directement au torrent... et pourtant les restaurants ne vendent que des bouteilles en plastique...
A stunning view of a mountain river in Patagonia, surrounded by rocks and rugged peaks, capturing the wild beauty of the Patagonian landscape.
Good bye beautiful mountain, you were not for us... Au revoir superbe montagne, tu n'étais pas pour nous...
A breathtaking view of towering snow-capped mountains, glaciers, and a calm turquoise lake, showcasing the beauty of nature.
Awesome bivy, alone ! - Superbe bivouac seuls !
A campsite set up among rocky terrain in Patagonia, featuring an orange tent with majestic mountains and glaciers behind, capturing the rugged beauty of the region.
From Laguna Sucia on the morning - Depuis la Laguna Sucia au matin
Stunning mountain landscape featuring sharp peaks, glaciers, and a vibrant sky, showcasing professional outdoor photography skills.
Laguna Sucia, finally alone ! - Enfin seuls !
A stunning mountain scene showcasing rugged peaks, a glacier, and a tranquil turquoise lake, perfect for nature and landscape photography enthusiasts.
On the way to Camp Poincennot - En route vers le Camp Poincennot
Stunning black and white mountain landscape featuring a winding river, rugged terrain, and dynamic sky, captured by Olivier Steiner Photography.
On the morning the creek is much easier to cross ! - Le matin le torrent est beaucoup plus facile à traverser !
A hiker with a backpack crossing a mountain river in Patagonia, surrounded by rocky terrain and majestic peaks under a clear blue sky.
A last sunset before going down - Un dernier coucher de soleil avant de descendre
Stunning mountain scene featuring rugged rocks and a colorful sky during sunset, emphasizing natural beauty and landscape photography.
Defeated by the wind, on the way back to La Playita - Vaincu par le vent, demi tour vers la Playita
A stunning mountain landscape featuring rugged rocks, a small stream, and a cloudy sky, ideal for outdoor and nature photography.
Big, steep, hard. What a legendary mountain ! - Grand, raide, difficile. Quelle montagne de légende !
A striking black and white photograph capturing the rugged beauty of Patagonia's mountains and river landscape.
Cerro Fitz Roy finally out of the clouds - Le Cerro Fitz Roy sortant enfin des nuages.
A breathtaking mountain scene showcasing diverse geological formations, alpine vegetation, and majestic snow-covered summits, perfect for nature photography and outdoor adventures.
Leaving the old itinerary to reach the Laguna de los 14, new trail - Loin de l'ancien itinéraire en montant vers la Laguna de los 14 sur le nouveau sentier.
A solo hiker with a backpack trekking through the dramatic, icy Patagonian wilderness, capturing the essence of adventure and nature's raw beauty.
Toward Marconi the weather is almost nice... but the wind... ! - Vers Marconi le temps semble correct... mais le vent... !
A stunning view of Patagonian mountains, glaciers, and rugged terrain, capturing the essence of the "Bitter sweet Patagonia" experience.
Zip line to cross the deep creek - Tyrolienne pour traverser le torrent profond.
A person fishing in a rocky river, wearing safety gear and holding a fishing rod, surrounded by natural rock formations and water.
After rain and snow, a decent sunset as a reward - Après la pluie et la neige, un coucher de soleil sympathique en récompense.
A dramatic view of rugged mountains in Patagonia during sunset, highlighting the region's wild beauty and contrasting colors.
La Playita, the only decently sheltered spot to camp around... - La Playita, le seul endroit quelque peu abrité du vent dans les environs.
A scenic mountain valley featuring rugged cliffs, a sandy riverbed, and a dramatic cloudy sky, captured by Olivier Steiner Photography.
45 minutes before la Playita the creek is strong and pretty deep - 45 minutes avant la Playita le torrent est fort et profond.
A person with a backpack crossing a mountain river surrounded by rocky terrain and mountains under a cloudy sky.
After a week of of rain, some blue sky is literally opening the way to the mountains - Après une semaine d'attente, le ciel bleu ouvre le chemin vers les montagnes.
A stunning mountain landscape featuring a flowing river, rugged peaks, and a vibrant sky with clouds, showcasing the beauty of nature.
Trailhead to Hielo Patagonia through Laguna de los 14. Can you see a price on this sign ? I can't... Départ pour le Hielo Patagonico par la laguna de los 14. Vous voyez des prix affichés sur le panneau ? Moi pas...
A hiker with a backpack stands by a river in a stunning Patagonian mountain landscape, with snow-capped peaks and a welcoming sign for Piedra del Fraile.
It was my first guided hike of the 2026 summer season. Just hiking boots, no snowshoes. Of course, above 2,400 m we met some large snow patches, most of them firm enough to allow steady progress. On such terrain, there…
It was supposed to be a regular day in the mountains. A bit busy maybe, as I was planning to scout two different hikes in the French Chablais. The morning was already amazing: hiking alone in some fresh early‑November snow,…
Thirteen years ago, I set off on a small adventure with my young dog Dyno. Southern Colorado, autumn, the Rocky Mountains. A Haute Route in mind, a bad weather forecast, and a four-legged companion discovering the high country for the very first time. From that week I keep golden colours, an immense silence, and the memory of a bond just beginning.
Near Yellowstone National Park, across Montana and Wyoming, the Absaroka Mountains are offering an awesome playground… Here is a little description of a very small part of this huge wilderness area.
You might have thought about visiting Olympic National Park, but what about doing it in October, during the low season, when you can be sure to get a much wilder experience ?
