In front of the pirogue, one then two and finally three grey and pink backs are slowly risingfrom the water. A little bit further, those Amazonian dolphins are revealing more of themselves while breathing and blowing some air. This is the kind of picture we were looking for in the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve, deep in the heart of the Amazonian rainforest of Peru.
Sunset over the Amazon rainforest from Yurimaguas
In this lush and primitive jungle, we would be lost like newbies therefore, for the first time, we decided to hire 2 guides through the Huayruro Tours agency : Octavio and Jovita who were waiting for us in Lagunas, a small and remote town located on the rio Huallaga. To reach this place, there is only one solution : by boat, because there is no road linking Lagunas to the rest of the country.
Lagunas main street
We were invited to board a motorboat equipped with around 80 to 100 seats and as much life jackets. After ignition of the engine, when we were about to leave Yurimaguas, we were probably 200. The anxiety was definitely real when we realized we were on what looked finally like a small skiff for the next 6 hours. At every single bend the water was close to pass on board and the screaming of most of the locals was definitely not a good sign.
On the way back, the boat is less crowded and feels safer.
Seven hours later we finally landed safely in Lagunas. Here, the only vehicles are moto-taxisand tricycles. Houses are made of wood or bricks for the stronger ones, mostly erected right on the soil, without foundations. During the rainy season, it gets easily muddy, even inside.
Lagunas
The reserve’s boundaries are just right outside the village. Tourism is a pretty recent thing here and the choice of hotels or restaurant is pretty limited and basic.
Parrots in Lagunas
On the pirogue, our two guides refuse to let us help with the paddling and invite us to focus on the forest and the wildlife. Being that passive is not really my thing and it is a bit disturbing at first. But pretty quickly, while getting deeper into the forest, the show starts and catches our attention. Different species of monkeys, blue and yellowmacaws, red bellied macawsor red and green macaws, yellow-rumped caciques and much more are making our day. Further, a sloth, a green iguana, a small caiman andan anaconda… In the boat, I look up, enjoying the pace of the trip and a large toucan flies across the sky. Before, all those animals appeared only in documentaries and were not really part of my world.
Capped heron (Pilherodius pileatus)
The local guides built some platforms with a palm roof as shelters. Those are great to pace our progression, hiding the strong midday sun, offering a soft floor to set up our mosquito screen for the far too hot nights. At the end of the day, a little swim in the rio is mandatory to cool the body. The river is full of greedy piranhas though, literally jumping on the food scraps we are throwing atthem.
One of the shelter, in the jungle
Further, when the river is larger and deeper, paiches (Arapaima gigas), gigantic and powerful fishes easily reaching 300 kg, are jumping around in a loud splashing noise. Dolphins are finally showing up in this area and are sometimes pretty close. Giant otters are running away not far from the boat. They are much larger than their North American cousins. Suddenly, howler monkeys start to yell somewhere in the jungle. The powerful sound is all we can hear and life in the forest seems to be brought to a stop.
Ready for the night (photo Sarah)
Octavio is often setting some fishing nets in the river in order to deliciously complement our meals. He is randomly catching a small caiman but quickly releases it. Two times, heinvites us to leave the boat for a walk in the forest. While slowly diving deeper into the jungle, he carefully marks our path with some small cuts on the trees. Passionate about his forest, he seems to enjoy sharing his knowledge : cutting a palm tree to harvest the heart of palm or looking for some little white worms that are tasting like coconut when we chew on them. Jovita cooks directly on the fire. Without both of them, we would have probably missed half of the wildlife we saw.
Little piranha (photo Sarah)
When the river is getting even larger, I would really like to get further into the reserve. There is probably a lot of other incredible surprises to discover and it is enjoyable to let this lush and rich nature pace our days. Halas, we just had 5 days to enjoy this special place and it is time to go back to Lagunas…
Pirogues in Lagunas
Pink and grey fresh water dolphins
Yurimaguas, end of the road before the jungle
Little villages on the side of the rio Huallaga
In the overcrowded boat : Dios te ama amigo…
The docks in Lagunas
Right outside Lagunas
Octavio in front of the pirogue, leading our trip
First shelter, the largest
Small caïman caught by Octavio
In the forest
Pirogues in Lagunas
Lagunas is a very small remote town. Only a couple of agencies are offering those tours in the reserve. We picked Huayruro tours and they were great.
Diaporama – Slideshow :
The docks in Lagunas
Vibrant scene of a local village in the Amazon rainforest, showing people gathering and selling watermelons at sunset in the Pacaya Samiria Reserve.
Octavio in front of the pirogue, leading our trip
A photograph capturing an outdoor river adventure in a lush, tropical jungle, emphasizing nature and exploration.
First main shelter in the reserve. This is where most tourists are turning back.
Fishermen fishing from boats along a muddy riverbank surrounded by lush green tropical forest, capturing a serene outdoor fishing moment.
Vibrant mural on a blue wall in Oaxaca featuring the words "Agua de Mesa" and "Samira" with a chair in front.
This image showcases vibrant street art and a blue door in Oaxaca, Mexico, highlighting local culture and artistic expression.
The Amazon rainforest, on the other side of the very large rio Huallaga
A scenic river view featuring a calm water surface, green foliage along the banks, and a bright blue sky with scattered clouds.
In the docks of Lagunas
A black and white photo of a family standing on the riverbank, watching the water and enjoying a peaceful moment together.
Nest of the yellow-rumped cacique
Close-up of bird nests hanging on tree branches, showcasing natural nesting sites in a lush environment.
One of the shelter, in the jungle
Exploring the Amazon in Peru, this photo shows tourists observing the lush rainforest and river landscape in the Pacaya Samiria Reserve.
Caiman action in the pirogue
A group of people engaging in an outdoor crocodile encounter in a river, showcasing wildlife photography and adventure activities.
Pirogues in Lagunas
Close-up of colorful wooden boats docked in the Amazon rainforest, highlighting local transportation in the Pacaya Samiria Reserve.
Entrance of the Pacaya Samiria Reserve
A scenic tropical landscape featuring dense trees and vibrant plants under a dramatic, overcast sky, showcasing natural outdoor photography.
Parrots in Lagunas
A view of the Amazon forest in Peru, showing a roof with colorful makeshift structures and surrounding lush vegetation in the Pacaya Samiria Reserve.
Lagunas main street
A vibrant Amazon village scene in Peru's Pacaya Samiria Reserve, showcasing local life with houses, people, and boats along the riverbank.
On the large rio Huallaga
A tranquil river landscape featuring a boat, water lilies, and dense greenery, ideal for outdoor and nature photography.
Harvesting a fresh heart of palm
A man in camouflage pants and a white and purple shirt cuts sugarcane in a lush, dense jungle environment, showcasing traditional agricultural practices.
Breakfast cooking
A person crouching by a fire, preparing fish with cooking utensils in a rural outdoor setting.
Lagunas
A collection of wooden boats docked along the riverbank in the Amazon rainforest, with a person preparing a boat for navigation in the Pacaya Samiria Reserve.
Main street of Lagunas
A peaceful rural village scene featuring tuk-tuks on a dirt road during sunset, capturing local life and transportation.
Morning in the reserve, after checking the fishing nets.
A photographer captures a serene moment of a man in a blue shirt paddling a boat on a peaceful river with dense trees reflected in the water.
Blue and yellow macaw
Vivid tropical parrot with bright blue and yellow feathers, captured in a natural setting among green leaves and branches.
Yellow-rumped cacique
Close-up of a tropical bird sitting on a branch beside a large nest in a vibrant green tree against a clear blue sky.
Colorful tropical birds resting on a tree branch amidst dense foliage.
The image features vibrant tropical birds sitting on a tree branch in a lush forest environment, highlighting nature and wildlife photography.
Cutting a palm tree for some fresh heart of palm
A person capturing wildlife in a vibrant jungle setting, surrounded by tall trees and abundant green foliage, showcasing outdoor adventure and nature photography skills.
Yurimaguas, end of the road before the jungle
A panoramic view of the Amazon River in Peru, showing the river, lush green forest, and local houses along the riverbank under a partly cloudy sky.
In the forest
Image of a towering tree in the Amazon rainforest, showcasing lush foliage and hanging vines, from the Pacaya Samiria Reserve.
Ranger station really remote in the forest
A rustic wooden house built on stilts, located in a tropical environment with dense trees and open space, showcasing natural architecture.
Wildlife encounter in the Amazon during Peru 2016 expedition, showcasing the region's rich biodiversity.
Close-up of a crocodile in the Amazon rainforest, highlighting the diverse wildlife of the Pacaya Samiria Reserve in Peru.
Fishing diner.
A man fishing in a river, catching a fish while sitting on a small boat surrounded by trees and nature.
Little villages on the side of the rio Huallaga
A wide view of the Amazon river in Peru with lush greenery and overcast sky, showcasing the natural beauty of Pacaya Samiria Reserve.
Kitchen
A rustic outdoor fire pit made of stone and wood, with a small fire burning, set in a lush green environment.
The docks in Lagunas
Local people gather on the riverbank in the Amazon rainforest, with boats and lush greenery in the background, during a visit to Pacaya Samiria Reserve.
Capped heron (Pilherodius pileatus)
A heron standing in shallow water in the Amazon rainforest, surrounded by dark foliage and muddy terrain, during a wildlife photography session.
... no worries, he got the right to return in the water right after...
A man in a blue shirt holding a big fish while sitting on a small boat in a river surrounded by greenery.
Ready for the night (photo Sarah)
A cozy shelter in the Amazon rainforest with mosquito nets, surrounded by lush greenery in the Pacaya Samiria Reserve, Peru.
Very encouraging when the boat is more than full...
A wooden canoe with handwritten markings, resting in the lush Amazon rainforest during a trip to Pacaya Samiria Reserve.
First shelter, the largest
A wooden hut with a thatched roof in the Amazon rainforest, surrounded by lush trees and greenery, with a person walking on a wooden pathway.
Majestic rainforest tree with sprawling branches and dense foliage, captured by Olivier Steiner Photography.
A towering, ancient tree in a vibrant rainforest setting, showcasing the beauty and grandeur of nature's oldest living organisms.
Pink and grey fresh water dolphins
Tranquil scene of the Amazon River in Peru's Pacaya Samiria Reserve, featuring floating rocks and lush greenery along the riverbank.
Yellow-rumped cacique
Close-up of a bird nest with small birds perched on a tree branch, showcasing nature photography skills.
Traditional outdoor cooking scene with a black kettle on a wood fire.
A black kettle is placed on a wood fire in a rustic outdoor setting, capturing a cozy, traditional cooking moment.
Sunset from Yurimaguas
A tranquil view of the Amazon River at sunset, with pink and orange clouds over lush green rainforest in the Pacaya Samiria Reserve, Peru.
On the way back, the boat is less crowded and feels safer.
A group of tourists traveling through the Amazon rainforest in Peru, enjoying a boat ride in the Pacaya Samiria Reserve.
Grey heron
A heron standing on a branch surrounded by vibrant green foliage, captured in natural light, showcasing wildlife photography skills.
Right outside Lagunas
A vibrant view of the Amazon forest in Peru's Pacaya Samiria Reserve, showcasing dense greenery, tall trees, and traditional huts in a remote jungle setting.
Young caiman accidentally caught in the fishing net.
A man sitting on a small boat holding a big fish he caught in a river, with trees and water in the background.
Yellow-rumped cacique
A vibrant black and yellow bird sitting on a tree branch surrounded by dense foliage, showcasing wildlife photography skills.
Two vibrant green parrots perched on a rustic wooden ledge indoors.
A close-up of two bright green parrots sitting on a wooden ledge inside a cozy, rustic setting.
A pair of blue wooden paddles leaning against a dock, with one paddle displaying a white circle, on a grassy and muddy ground.
This image shows two blue wooden paddles with a white circle design, resting on the ground under a rustic wooden dock, highlighting outdoor water activity equipment.
Little piranha (photo Sarah)
A person in outdoor gear holding a small fish caught in the Amazon forest, highlighting local wildlife and fishing activities in the Pacaya Samiria Reserve.
Fast boat on the rio Huallaga
A boat moving swiftly along a river, with passengers enjoying the scenic view and the sense of adventure.
Last shelter before turning back
A cozy outdoor shelter made of wood and thatch, featuring tables and chairs, surrounded by vibrant greenery and trees.
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