The plane is landing in Callao, one of Lima’s neighboring municipality overrun by dust and where everything seems to be still under construction. In July, as we are now in the southern hemisphere, it is winter, and the sky is low and grey. Right outside of the airport, some very large signs advertising luxurious goods are “welcoming” the traveler, and one of those, a real gigantic sculpture depicting the iconic bottles of THE big brand of cola flavored soda, is leaving me quite baffled. It is my first step in South America, and it is about to last 3 years…
The noise, the traffic and the driving that I could call “sporty” are immediately impressive. Yet this discomfort is quite short-lived as those busy streets are welcoming and are hiding museums, restaurants, cafés and all kind of shops. It means those streets are walkable, something I will rediscover after spending the last 7 years in Houston. The contrast between those 2 cities is huge and I appreciate it.
After a couple of weeks, I love Lima. It is a complete new world to explore, it is a different life, a daily existence filled by all kinds of new things. For the amazing and delicious Peruvian cuisine, for this real base camp in South America, for the Andes raising almost at the apartment’s door, … Lima is offering a wide panel of incredible discoveries and opportunities.
It is absolutely enjoyable to walk around this place that’s nicknamed Lima the grey. I will quickly learn that this winter 2015, my first here, (July and August are in the middle of winter in southern hemisphere) is especially mild and pleasant.
Lima is THE big city of Peru, gathering almost one third of the 36 million people of the country. Everything can be found but it might require some effort in order to find it and word of mouth is often the way to go as most information is not yet available on the internet. It’s here that most visitors will discover the ceviche and the pisco sour (pisco is the local alcohol). As a modern city, it is easy to see only the bright side and forget the fact that it is a city of contrasts too, opposing disadvantaged slums against shopping malls or luxurious neighborhoods.
In Peru, Lima creates the envy of most, and many, one day, closed the door of their isolated little house in the Andes to reach the capital in the hope of better days and an easier life. Unfortunately, these hopes are often disappointed and too often, people are ending up in one of these slums, without water or electricity. Is life here really any better than up there, in the Andes?
Costa Verde – Miraflores Malecon at nightWall of shame : 16 km of barb wire and concrete walls.Rosa Nautica, a famous restaurant and a common surf spot.
2ndwinter
The 2ndwinter is mild one more time, but the time of the discovery is over: the routine is now settled, Lima is lived. The effervescence of the markets is still enjoyed. The noise starts to be heard and the pollution to be seen, but those are not yet annoyances and Lima still reveals new and numerous secrets: it is sometimes a surprising and incredible restaurant, it is this little trail on the hills leading to the summit of a real mountain overlooking Lima and offering a unique panorama, it is as well this little market in which some merchants are beginning to recognize us or even all those little habits, henceforth part of the established routine. Visitors, friends or family, are greatly helping us to discover some new treasures, some superb museums or to enjoy some already known restaurants.
Meanwhile, we learned why there was a wall up in the hills we can see through our windows: it is the “wall of shame”, a mix of concrete walls and barb wires basically separating rich districts and poor ones. 16 km long, it leaves a bitter taste every time I see it.
View of the large city Lima (Peru) from the first hills of the AndesPacific coast in MirafloresCerro San Cristobal from the Historical Center – Lima
And slowly the routine takes over
The 3rdwinter is unpleasant: it is chilly, between 15 and 18 Celsius (59 to 64 F), but it is the same temperature in the apartment too because housings are not insulated and always unheated. Humidity is really high too, even inside, and largely contributes to increase the sensation of cold. It is really hard to get warmer once at home…
The constant noise is now a real issue, but traffic and pollution are definitely the worst. During the last few months, I started suffering from severe allergies, preventing me to enjoy the daily life. Traffic is exhausting and discouraging: moving in the city or leaving it requires time and efforts most of the time. In the end, all those little things are experienced as daily annoyances and they have extinguished the passion of the beginning. It is time to turn a new page, to simply move on. Goodbye Lima!
Sunset over Lima from Cerro San Francisco
View of the large city Lima (Peru) from the first hills of the AndesPacific ocean wavesRock Climbing in Las Cuevas – La MolinaLima from the first hills of the AndesColorful graffiti-covered beach hut on a rocky coast under cloudy skies.San Juan de MirafloresSurfing spot – MirafloresHistorical center – LimaIn the streets of Baranco
Diaporama – Slideshow :
Pacific coast in Miraflores
A black and white photograph of two children standing on a pebble beach, facing the ocean, with one child waving.
Wall of shame, on the South side, a slum.
A black and white photograph of a mountain trail with rocky, uneven terrain, leading towards a village in the valley below.
Miraflores, Barranco and Chorrillos, the whole Lima bay
A panoramic view of a coastal city with high-rise buildings, ocean waves, and a clear blue sky, showcasing professional photography by Olivier Steiner.
Lima from Cerro San Francisco
A scenic landscape featuring a cross on a rocky hilltop during sunset, capturing the serene atmosphere and panoramic city view.
Burrowing owl (Lima hills) – Chouette chevêche (sur les collines de Lima
A detailed image of a small owl sitting on rocks with a blurred mountain background, showcasing wildlife photography skills.
Lima from the first hills of the Andes
A stunning view of a city illuminated at dusk, taken from a mountain vantage point, showcasing the vibrant urban landscape and colorful sunset sky.
Street art in Baranco
A vibrant mural with detailed animal and floral street art, captured by Olivier Steiner Photography, highlighting urban art and creative expression.
Surfing right in the city – Miraflores
A young boy and girl with surfboards on a pebble beach, preparing for surfing as the sun sets over the ocean.
View of the large city Lima (Peru) from the first hills of the Andes
A breathtaking sunset scene from Mount San Cristobal featuring a large cross, overlooking Santiago, Chile, with a vibrant sky and city below.
The Costa Verde road, often crowded
Parque del Amor – Love park – Miraflores
A scenic park scene with a prominent sculpture, trees, and a pathway leading to the waterfront, ideal for outdoor photography and leisure.
Baranco
A vibrant mural featuring diverse individuals with expressive faces, set against a starry night background, showcasing urban street art.
Sunset over Lima from Cerro San Francisco
A stunning aerial view of Los Angeles during sunset, showcasing the city’s skyline and vibrant atmosphere.
Paragliding above the Pacific Ocean in Miraflores
A dynamic image of a paraglider flying over the sea, showcasing outdoor adventure and extreme sports photography.
Historical center – Lima
A black and white aerial photo of a busy city intersection showing pedestrians crossing and vehicles on the road.
View of the large city Lima (Peru) from the first hills of the Andes
Stunning aerial photograph capturing the vibrant colors of a sunset over Los Angeles, showcasing the city’s landscape and surrounding mountains.
Baranco
A vivid mural on a city wall showcasing a colorful toucan, a fish, and a detailed portrait, highlighting urban art and culture in Medellín.
Wall of shame : La Molina on the north side
A scenic mountain trail winding along a ridge with panoramic views of the city and surrounding mountains, captured in natural daylight.
View of the large city Lima (Peru) from the first hills of the Andes
A scenic sunset view with a cross on a hilltop, capturing the peaceful and inspiring atmosphere of the moment.
Religious procession – Callao
People participate in a religious celebration outside a church, honoring Our Lady of Guadalupe with a statue and traditional decorations.
Malecon de Miraflores
A large, vibrant sculpture by Olivier Steiner featuring bold colors and intricate patterns, situated in a scenic coastal park with ocean views and greenery.
Religious procession – Callao
Personas participando en una procesión religiosa tradicional, llevando un altar adornado con flores y detalles dorados en un entorno cultural guatemalteco.
Cerro San Cristobal from the Historical Center – Lima
A panoramic view of Lima, Peru featuring mountains, colorful buildings, and busy streets.
The wall of shame, right above Lima
A black and white photograph of a mountain trail running along a stone wall, surrounded by foggy mountain scenery, emphasizing landscape and nature photography.
Rock Climbing in Las Cuevas – La Molina
Old man and the sea – Miraflores
A black and white photograph of a person sitting on a stool at the rocky shoreline, facing the calm sea with a moody sky overhead, emphasizing tranquility and natural beauty.
Parque del Amor, the love park – Miraflores
Beautiful mosaic benches featuring colorful tile patterns at Ocean Park, ideal for outdoor photography and scenic views.
Historical center – Lima
A charming street scene featuring a classic yellow car and bright blue colonial building, capturing vibrant urban life.
San Juan de Miraflores
A wide-angle shot capturing a city nestled in mountains during sunset, highlighting urban sprawl and scenic natural surroundings.
Rosa Nautica, a famous restaurant and a common surf spot.
A black and white image capturing a historic pier extending over the ocean with two swimmers enjoying the water nearby, showcasing coastal scenery and seaside leisure.
Surfing in Miraflores
A scenic beach photograph featuring two boats on the rocky shore, with surfers in the water and a calm sea under a cloudy sky.
Rosa Nautica and surfers
A vibrant beach scene featuring surfers, a seagull flying overhead, and parked cars along Ocean Beach in San Francisco, capturing a lively coastal atmosphere.
Surfing spot – Miraflores
A retro turquoise van with artistic ocean-themed designs parked on a beach, with a cloudy sky and sea in the background.
Pacific ocean waves
A peaceful seascape capturing smooth, tranquil ocean waves with soft light reflections, emphasizing serenity and natural beauty.
In the streets of Baranco
This image showcases a vibrant mural with a meditative figure, highlighting urban street art and creative expression.
The wall of shame on the hills
A scenic mountain landscape featuring a trail along a ridge, with distant peaks and a bright sky.
Parque del Amor – Love Park – Miraflores
A scenic mosaic park with lush trees, decorative mosaic walls, and a view of the sea, showcasing outdoor photography skills.
San Francisco Basilica – Historical Center – Lima
San Domingo basilica – Historical Center – Lima
Detailed wooden religious sculptures showcasing craftsmanship and spiritual symbolism in a historic setting.
Miraflores, San Isidro and more from Baranco
A scenic coastal scene featuring the ocean, city skyline, and dramatic storm clouds over the California coast.
Wall of shame : 16 km of barb wire and concrete walls.
A black and white photograph of a mountain trail with a barbed wire fence, overlooking a valley and rugged mountain landscape.
After surf in Miraflores
A peaceful beach with camera gear and personal belongings on the rocky shore under a cloudy sky.
Every Sunday in the Kennedy Park, people gathering and dancing
A diverse crowd of people attending a community event in a city square, with trees and historic buildings in the background.
View of the large city Lima (Peru) from the first hills of the Andes
A stunning sunset view of Los Angeles from a high vantage point, showcasing the city’s skyline and colorful sky at dusk.
Colorful graffiti-covered beach hut on a rocky coast under cloudy skies.
A small, graffiti-covered beach hut on a rocky shoreline, with cloudy skies and calm sea in the background.
A rugged dirt trail along a stone wall offers panoramic views of a sprawling city and distant mountains, capturing the natural beauty and adventure of.
Thirteen years ago, I set off on a small adventure with my young dog Dyno. Southern Colorado, autumn, the Rocky Mountains. A Haute Route in mind, a bad weather forecast, and a four-legged companion discovering the high country for the very first time. From that week I keep golden colours, an immense silence, and the memory of a bond just beginning.
Near Yellowstone National Park, across Montana and Wyoming, the Absaroka Mountains are offering an awesome playground… Here is a little description of a very small part of this huge wilderness area.
You might have thought about visiting Olympic National Park, but what about doing it in October, during the low season, when you can be sure to get a much wilder experience ?
– Full slide show at the bottom of the page – Some experiences are life changing and, when those are lived, one can get the feeling he has reached some kind of no return point. Clearly, there is a before…
Thinking about Easter Island, everybody is immediately picturing the giant and mysterious statues. But have you ever thought about simply spending a week there ? – Full slide show at the bottom of the page – For hours the plane…
