Colchane, Chili, 3800 m, Hôtel Isluga.
From Putre, 2 days on a almost decent dirt road are necessary to reach this weird place far from everything. Two days full of emotions, pictures,…
The dirt road starts at Chungara, right in front of the Parinacota Volcano. A thunderstorm is already on the highest summits but the road is still dry and decent.
After 12 miles, at a junction, it is the left road that leads to the Guallatiri. Narrower, harder, steeper, it goes through a lunar landscape and the 4×4 finally reaches the volcano base camp at 17000 ‘ high (after spotting a rhea at 16700′). The scenery is outstanding. The Guallatiri is an active volcano, 19900’ high, that release a lot of sulfurs. It is definitely recommended to start the ascent around 4:30 am in order to reach the summit around 10 am : after that there is generally a wind that pushes the smokes toward the ascenders, forbidding all attempts.
Between the lack of air above 16000′ and the sulfur smell, it is finally almost impossible to sleep. Waking up at 3 am is therefore particularly hard and it is even harder to find the mandatory resources to overcome those conditions. After one hour, we decide to return to the camp and let the volcano enjoy its solitude.
Direction : Salar de Surire. The dirt road is crossing wide landscapes, incredibly wild and remote. The few little villages that we are crossing looks like they are coming from a different world. Life must be hard there, probably following nature’s rhythm. Churches, colonization witnesses, are spread along the road. Some are listed monuments.
Salar de Surire is 14400′, sheltered by higher mountains. Salt is still extracted and a lot of trucks, fully loaded, are leaving on this small dirt road. We decide to drive around the Salar to enjoy the harsh scenery but to look at the 3 species of flamingos too. Vicuñas and lamas are everywhere (Pictures of fauna will be online after the trip)
After getting stuck in the sand, we manage to get out of this trap and we reach a hot springs area. The area feels so incredible that we decide to stop for a magic night there. (Imagine having a giant Yellowstone like, hot pool for yourself)
Waking up in the middle of a sulfur/vapor cloud in the morning is simply incredible.
