The last day of a long hike always feels pretty special. The overall excitation to finish a project, often mixed with some culinary fantaisies and a strong desire for a hot shower, is directly opposed to the quasi sadness of leaving an incredible place, even uncomfortable. Hiking could feel less interesting during those last kilometers because the mind is constantly hesitating between those two feelings and it is then harder to really appreciate the surroundings.
PatagoniaAbandoned farm in Tierra del Fuego
This morning, the weather seems comforting. Yesterday it rained all day. Packing up for the last time it is impossible to not think about the long wait before finally hiking the trail of “La Paciencia” in the very new Karukinka Park. Still pretty unknown, this park, situated in the southern part of Tierra del Fuego, has been created in 2004 by the WCS (Wilderness Conservation Service, USA) and is still a private property. The goal here is not to promote the place and attract more people, but instead to educate and conserve those primitive forests and incredible mountains. A couple of trails have been set and are a good way to enjoy this incredible nature.
A serene wildlife scene featuring a herd of grazing animals in a vast, green landscape with gentle hills and water streams.Southern crested Caracara
There is absolutely no public transportation to reach this part of Chile and it is then mandatory to rent a car which is a good way to visit the rest of the Tierra del Fuego as well. Along the road guanacos are almost as numerous as sheep and, often, they are easily jumping over the fences in a gracious leap. On the coast, a few king penguins have settled for the summer and it is quite easy to spot them. Clouds are passing quickly and are constantly changing the ambient light while trees are barely moving, literally frozen by the wind. It almost feels like time would elapse differently here.
Scenic wildlife landscape featuring penguins in their natural habitat, showcasing the beauty of nature and wildlife photography.King penguin in Tierra del Fuego Penguins gathered on a rocky beach with ocean waves in the background.
Toward the south, mountains are standing : Karukinka park is there, not far from the even wilder Cordillera Darwin.
The Paciencia trail is not for anyone : landscape won’t blow your mind (at least the first day…), it is cold, windy and the weather is constantly changing… one has to really want to come here, to seek solitude and some amazing nature. The trail follows a valley for more than 20 miles to reach the Paciencia bay, crossing an incredible primitive forest along some of the most stunning and colored peatlands.
Spectacular peatlandsA hiker crossing a fallen log over a mountain pond surrounded by lush forest and dramatic peaks.A haunting scene of a swampy forest with dead trees and fallen logs, highlighting nature’s resilience and decay.
As suggested by its name, one has to be patient and take his time to really enjoy those wild woods and the incredible density of trees. Very few humans are hiking here therefore the wildlife is curious. Birds are the first to get really close, sometimes just 2 or 3 feet away. Later, some really fat beavers are coming out, barely looking at us, just enjoying their life in this place. Even a nice Magellan Fox will get close enough to have a look at us. Guanacos are the only shy animals here, running quickly while snorting weirdly.
Wild otter in its natural environment, showcasing aquatic wildlife photography.Wildlife photography of an otter in its natural habitat, showcasing aquatic animal behavior and environment.Wild otter in natural habitat, swimming and exploring water environment.
Those two first days through the woods are rewarded when reaching the bay, at the Aserradero La Paciencia, ruin of an ancient farm, witness of old hopes probably drown by the harsh reality. The place is incredibly beautiful, between mountains and sea, and it is more than tempting to follow the beach even further, to admire the Cordillera Darwin that proudly stands on the other side of the fjord. A crazy wind is kind of clearing the sky, allowing a warm sun to play with fast clouds. The scenery is incredible, wild and unique. We could stay here. It is easy to understand the first settlers who built that farm.
The bay before the fjordBeautiful mountain landscape under a vibrant blue sky with scattered clouds, captured by Olivier Steiner Photography.Low tide – Marée basseRemains of a solitary past – Restes d’un passé isoléWindy – VenteuxBivouac with a view
Unfortunately food starts to be limited and it is time to go back. 5 days of solitude in Karukinka.
Once at the car, culinary fantasies and hot showers will have to wait a bit more as it seems logical to take some more time to explore Tierra del Fuego a bit further, at least until the end of the actual road, at Caleta Maria. Shared between Argentina and Chile, Fagnano Lake (60 miles long) is splendid and is the beginning of an incredible turquoise river on the west side.
Caleta Maria
Slowly, it is time to head back toward Punta Arenas, crossing again this incredible Tierra del Fuego. Lights and sceneries are as described by Coloane or Chatvin in their books. I read them as a teenager and I’m now eager to read them again.
Finally a snow storm (it is summer here…) is gently pushing us out of the mountains. It is time to leave alone this amazing wild world.
Tierra del Fuego
Serene scene of giraffes roaming and grazing in a vast, natural grassland environment with a water stream.A cousin of Lamas and Alpagas: the Guanacos A group of penguins strolling on the rocky beach in Karukinka, Tierra del Fuego, showcasing wildlife and natural landscapes.King penguin in Tierra del FuegoWildlife photography of penguins on a coastal beach, capturing their natural habitat and behavior.Trailhead of la PacienciaHigh density of treesFlooded wood by beavers – Bois innondés par les castorsA playful otter swimming in a river, captured in a natural wildlife scene showcasing aquatic animals.Wild otter in its natural environment near water, showcasing nature photography.Wild otter in natural habitat among trees and moss.Dead wood and peatlands – Forêts mortes et tourbières Scenic mountain lake scene featuring calm waters, lush greenery, and majestic snow-covered mountains under a bright sky.Low tide in the bay – marée basseCordillera DarwinJust before the bayA hiker with a backpack and hat crossing a small river in a dense forest, showcasing outdoor adventure photography.Bahia PaciencaThe old farm near the bay – la vieille ferme donnant sur la baie
Río Azopardo after Fagnano Lake
Caleta Maria – end of the road (for now…)
Slideshow - Diaporama
Southern crested Caracara
A bird sitting on a wooden post surrounded by vibrant green foliage and trees, showcasing nature photography skills.
A serene wildlife scene featuring a herd of grazing animals in a vast, green landscape with gentle hills and water streams.
This image captures a peaceful scene of grazing animals in a wide, open landscape with rolling hills, water streams, and lush grass, showcasing natural wildlife habitat.
A cousin of Lamas and Alpagas: the Guanacos
A guanaco in the wild, capturing the essence of solitude and natural beauty in Tierra del Fuego's Karukinka reserve.
Tierra del Fuego
A black and white photograph capturing a solitary tree in Karukinka, Tierra del Fuego, emphasizing isolation and natural beauty.
Abandoned farm in Tierra del Fuego
A rural scene featuring a farmhouse with a red roof, set against a clear blue sky with sunlight, captured by Olivier Steiner Photography.
Wild otter in natural habitat among trees and moss.
A wild otter navigating through a dense, moss-covered forest stream, showcasing wildlife photography skills.
Wildlife photography of an otter in its natural habitat, showcasing aquatic animal behavior and environment.
A close-up of an otter swimming in a river, captured under a fallen tree, highlighting wildlife and nature photography skills.
Wild otter in natural habitat, swimming and exploring water environment.
A playful otter gliding through water, showcasing its sleek fur and curious nature in a serene aquatic setting.
A playful otter swimming in a river, captured in a natural wildlife scene showcasing aquatic animals.
This wildlife photograph features an otter swimming in a river, highlighting the beauty of nature and aquatic wildlife photography.
Wild otter in its natural environment, showcasing aquatic wildlife photography.
A close-up of an otter swimming in a river or pond, surrounded by tree roots and natural elements.
Wild otter in its natural environment near water, showcasing nature photography.
A close-up of a wild otter emerging from a riverbank burrow, highlighting wildlife photography and natural habitat.
A peaceful scene capturing the quiet beauty of Karukinka in Tierra del Fuego, emphasizing solitude and natural serenity.
This black and white photograph showcases the serene, untouched wilderness of Karukinka, highlighting the calm waters, rugged mountains, and expansive sky.
Patagonia
A peaceful black and white landscape featuring a lone tree on a grassy field with a striking sky overhead.
King penguin in Tierra del Fuego
A group of penguins standing on a grassy area near the coast, with the sea and sky visible in the background, showcasing wildlife photography.
Scenic wildlife landscape featuring penguins in their natural habitat, showcasing the beauty of nature and wildlife photography.
A wide view of a wildlife scene with penguins standing on a grassy terrain near a water body, captured in natural light with a dramatic sky overhead.
A peaceful forest trail surrounded by tall trees with vibrant green leaves, moss-covered ground, and fallen branches.
This image showcases a serene woodland trail in a dense forest, highlighting the natural beauty and tranquility of outdoor nature photography.
Trailhead of la Paciencia
A person repairs a wooden gate at the entrance of Karukinka Wildlife Sanctuary in Patagonia, surrounded by mountains and lush greenery.
Wildlife photography of penguins on a coastal beach, capturing their natural habitat and behavior.
A group of penguins walking on a sandy beach near the ocean, showcasing their natural environment and social behavior.
King penguin in Tierra del Fuego
A group of penguins gathered on the beach near the water, showcasing wildlife photography by Olivier Steiner.
Penguins gathered on a rocky beach with ocean waves in the background.
A group of penguins standing on a rocky shoreline near the ocean, with waves and a distant horizon visible in the background.
Flooded wood by beavers - Bois innondés par les castors
A serene swamp forest scene featuring numerous fallen trees, calm water reflections, and a backdrop of distant hills under a cloudy sky.
A haunting scene of a swampy forest with dead trees and fallen logs, highlighting nature's resilience and decay.
This image depicts a swampy forest area with numerous dead trees and fallen logs, illustrating the impact of environmental changes on the landscape.
High density of trees
A detailed image of a dense forest with tall trees and vibrant green leaves, showcasing natural beauty and outdoor scenery.
A hiker with a backpack and hat crossing a small river in a dense forest, showcasing outdoor adventure photography.
This outdoor scene captures a hiker navigating a forest stream on a fallen tree, emphasizing nature exploration and adventure photography.
Dead wood and peatlands - Forêts mortes et tourbières
A scenic mountain landscape featuring leafless trees, green hills, and a bright blue sky with clouds, capturing natural wilderness.
A group of penguins strolling on the rocky beach in Karukinka, Tierra del Fuego, showcasing wildlife and natural landscapes.
Stunning mountain scenery captured during daytime with vibrant sky and natural terrain.
A wide view of a mountain range under a bright blue sky with scattered clouds, showcasing the beauty of nature and outdoor photography.
A hiker crossing a fallen log over a mountain pond surrounded by lush forest and dramatic peaks.
A person with a backpack walking across a fallen tree in a remote mountain area, showcasing outdoor exploration and nature photography.
Cordillera Darwin
A scenic view of a mountain lake with a rocky shoreline, surrounded by distant snow-capped mountains under a partly cloudy sky.
The bay before the fjord
A stunning fjord scene with rugged rocks, calm waters, and a vibrant sky, showcasing natural beauty and outdoor serenity.
Capturing the peaceful beauty of Tierra del Fuego's Karukinka region, highlighting its pristine wilderness and dramatic mountain scenery.
Low tide in the bay - marée basse
A serene mountain lake scene featuring misty peaks, calm waters, and a tranquil atmosphere, ideal for nature photography portfolios.
The old farm near the bay - la vieille ferme donnant sur la baie
A serene mountain landscape featuring a house, a large tree, and distant mountains under a partly cloudy sky, captured by Olivier Steiner Photography.
Just before the bay
A wide view of a lush green field with mountains in the distance, under a partly cloudy sky, captured by Olivier Steiner Photography.
Spectacular peatlands
A stunning mountain scene featuring green slopes, rocky peaks, and a bright blue sky with clouds, showcasing natural beauty and outdoor scenery.
Beautiful mountain landscape under a vibrant blue sky with scattered clouds, captured by Olivier Steiner Photography.
A stunning view of mountains under a bright blue sky with fluffy clouds, showcasing the natural beauty of the landscape captured by Olivier Steiner Photography.
Low tide - Marée basse
A peaceful mountain lake scene featuring reflective waters, green mossy rocks, and a vibrant sky, showcasing natural beauty and landscape photography skills.
Scenic mountain lake scene featuring calm waters, lush greenery, and majestic snow-covered mountains under a bright sky.
A stunning landscape photograph capturing a tranquil mountain lake surrounded by lush vegetation and towering snow-capped peaks, ideal for nature and travel photography.
Bivouac with a view
A stunning mountain landscape featuring a wide view of the sky, clouds, and distant snow-capped mountains, captured by Olivier Steiner Photography.
Remains of a solitary past - Restes d'un passé isolé
A scenic mountain landscape featuring a small house, lush green grass, and dramatic cloud cover over distant mountains.
Windy - Venteux
A serene mountain lake scene featuring a rocky shoreline, calm waters, and majestic distant mountains, showcasing natural beauty and outdoor photography skills.
Bahia Pacienca
A peaceful river scene featuring flowing water, surrounding hills, and a vibrant sky, ideal for outdoor photography and nature enthusiasts.
A tranquil view of the Karukinka landscape with mountains, water, and dramatic sky, emphasizing solitude and natural beauty.
This image showcases the serene and remote environment of Karukinka in Tierra del Fuego, highlighting the untouched wilderness and atmospheric sky.
Beautiful mountain lake surrounded by green hills under a vibrant blue sky with fluffy clouds.
A stunning landscape featuring a mountain lake, green vegetation, and a bright sky with scattered clouds, ideal for outdoor and nature photography.
It was my first guided hike of the 2026 summer season. Just hiking boots, no snowshoes. Of course, above 2,400 m we met some large snow patches, most of them firm enough to allow steady progress. On such terrain, there…
It was supposed to be a regular day in the mountains. A bit busy maybe, as I was planning to scout two different hikes in the French Chablais. The morning was already amazing: hiking alone in some fresh early‑November snow,…
Thirteen years ago, I set off on a small adventure with my young dog Dyno. Southern Colorado, autumn, the Rocky Mountains. A Haute Route in mind, a bad weather forecast, and a four-legged companion discovering the high country for the very first time. From that week I keep golden colours, an immense silence, and the memory of a bond just beginning.
Near Yellowstone National Park, across Montana and Wyoming, the Absaroka Mountains are offering an awesome playground… Here is a little description of a very small part of this huge wilderness area.
You might have thought about visiting Olympic National Park, but what about doing it in October, during the low season, when you can be sure to get a much wilder experience ?
