– Full slide show at the bottom of the page –
The last day of a long hike always feels pretty special. The overall excitation to finish a project, often mixed with some culinary fantaisies and a strong desire for a hot shower, is directly opposed to the quasi sadness of leaving an incredible place, even uncomfortable. Hiking could feel less interesting during those last kilometers because the mind is constantly hesitating between those two feelings and it is then harder to really appreciate the surroundings.
This morning, the weather seems comforting. Yesterday it rained all day. Packing up for the last time it is impossible to not think about the long wait before finally hiking the trail of “La Paciencia” in the very new Karukinka Park. Still pretty unknown, this park, situated in the southern part of Tierra del Fuego, has been created in 2004 by the WCS (Wilderness Conservation Service, USA) and is still a private property. The goal here is not to promote the place and attract more people, but instead to educate and conserve those primitive forests and incredible mountains. A couple of trails have been set and are a good way to enjoy this incredible nature.
There is absolutely no public transportation to reach this part of Chile and it is then mandatory to rent a car which is a good way to visit the rest of the Tierra del Fuego as well. Along the road guanacos are almost as numerous as sheep and, often, they are easily jumping over the fences in a gracious leap. On the coast, a few king penguins have settled for the summer and it is quite easy to spot them. Clouds are passing quickly and are constantly changing the ambient light while trees are barely moving, literally frozen by the wind. It almost feels like time would elapse differently here.
Toward the south, mountains are standing : Karukinka park is there, not far from the even wilder Cordillera Darwin.
The Paciencia trail is not for anyone : landscape won’t blow your mind (at least the first day…), it is cold, windy and the weather is constantly changing… one has to really want to come here, to seek solitude and some amazing nature. The trail follows a valley for more than 20 miles to reach the Paciencia bay, crossing an incredible primitive forest along some of the most stunning and colored peatlands.
As suggested by its name, one has to be patient and take his time to really enjoy those wild woods and the incredible density of trees. Very few humans are hiking here therefore the wildlife is curious. Birds are the first to get really close, sometimes just 2 or 3 feet away. Later, some really fat beavers are coming out, barely looking at us, just enjoying their life in this place. Even a nice Magellan Fox will get close enough to have a look at us. Guanacos are the only shy animals here, running quickly while snorting weirdly.
Those two first days through the woods are rewarded when reaching the bay, at the Aserradero La Paciencia, ruin of an ancient farm, witness of old hopes probably drown by the harsh reality. The place is incredibly beautiful, between mountains and sea, and it is more than tempting to follow the beach even further, to admire the Cordillera Darwin that proudly stands on the other side of the fjord. A crazy wind is kind of clearing the sky, allowing a warm sun to play with fast clouds. The scenery is incredible, wild and unique. We could stay here. It is easy to understand the first settlers who built that farm.
Unfortunately food starts to be limited and it is time to go back. 5 days of solitude in Karukinka.
Once at the car, culinary fantasies and hot showers will have to wait a bit more as it seems logical to take some more time to explore Tierra del Fuego a bit further, at least until the end of the actual road, at Caleta Maria. Shared between Argentina and Chile, Fagnano Lake (60 miles long) is splendid and is the beginning of an incredible turquoise river on the west side.
Slowly, it is time to head back toward Punta Arenas, crossing again this incredible Tierra del Fuego. Lights and sceneries are as described by Coloane or Chatvin in their books. I read them as a teenager and I’m now eager to read them again.
Finally a snow storm (it is summer here…) is gently pushing us out of the mountains. It is time to leave alone this amazing wild world.
