Paramis, 3880 m, end of the road. The driver brings his moto taxi to a stop. Right on Lake Titicaca’s shore, the village is reduced to a group of scattered houses along the main path.
Amantani Island from Capachica Peninsula
To reach Venancio’s home, it is mandatory to walk about 15 minutes more. No one comes here, on Capachica’s peninsula, by chance. A strong desire for calm, tranquility and humility, or simply the wish to avoid the main and often overcrowded touristic circuits, are as many reasons to end up in this “end of the world” village. No agency will take the wandering tourist by hand to bring him here. The approach is personal and requires some basic Spanish and a little knowledge of the local transportations.
Young shepherd on the shore of Lake Titicaca in the pueblo of Paramis, Capachica Peninsula
Some years ago, Venancio has decided to welcome tourists and to do so he has added some rooms to his house in order to accommodate visitors. No one should come here as a consumer and there is actually nothing here to consume. Coming here simply means sharing a couple of days of a simple and humble daily life: waking up and going to bed with the sun, pulling up the net set the day before in the lake’s clear and cold water, hiking on the trail used daily by the kids to go to school on the other side of the peninsula, playing cards with the kids, chatting again and again with Venancio,… Without falling into some unwholesome voyeurism, this short visit reminds us of the extent to which our Western system has sunk into excess and uselessness, while emphasizing the incredible comfort we enjoy every day. Whereas mobile phones have invaded the most remote areas, there is still no running water system here, and I’m not even mentioning hot water or any kind of heater. Cooking is done in a corner of a small room on an old gas stove while the dishes are cleaned in a bucket of cold water, right on the clay ground. As we talk, Venancio explains that tourism is important for his family because it brings enough income to be able to stay in Paramis. However, he does not want it to evolve to the point of becoming uncontrollable like it is often the case elsewhere…
Amantani Island
From Capachica, it is fairly easy to go to Amantani by boat. There, it will be mandatory to spend the night on the island in order to reach Taquile and finaly Puno the following day, by looking for some available spots on the tourist’s boats.
Although invaded by visitors of all kinds, tourism on those islands seems particularly well organized and supervised. All nights are hosted by locals and a rotation system organized fairly allows everybody to gain some benefits from the touristic manna.
Titicaca and the Cordillera Real in Bolivia from Amantani Island
In theory prices are fixed and fair but some agencies are always trying to push for a lower fee… It is mandatory to understand that it will have a direct impact on the locals, not on the agency…
Taquile Island
Leaving from Capachica, we arrive on Amantani earlier than the first tourists’ wave coming from Puno which is perfect to enjoy the quietness of the place. We quickly notice the consequences of the mass tourism: exchanges are limited to the bare essentials, nobody is trying to understand the other one. As is often the case, it is not uncommon to observe the total lack of respect for the place and its inhabitants.
The main summit of Amantani offers an incredible view of the entire lake as well as the Cordillera Real, in Bolivia.
One of the gates of Taquile Island on lake Titicaca
In Taquile, a guide explains to his group the way the community is living, the traditions. Born on this island, he confirms that those islands would be deserted without tourism. I don’t dare to mention the severe issue of pollution caused by boats (growing in number) whose engines do not meet any standards… As usual, during those tours, I have the feeling of quickly visiting a museum without being able to go beyond the scope of a primary commercial exchange, but obviously necessary.
Puno’s parade
The city of Puno has a bad reputation. For most, it is only a place of transit between Bolivia, the lake’s islands and Cusco or Arequipa. From far, the city is grey, unappealing, but, to my biggest surprise, it is a pretty vivid Peruvian city welcoming us. It is actually a crossroads between the altiplano, the city and the rest of the country. It is quite pleasant to walk around in those actives and animated streets.
Puno’s parade
By chance, the celebration of the city’s day occurs on the last day of our visit. A huge parade, organized by the local school, is taking place downtown all day long. Costumes, dances, music… For the photographer, it is a unique moment to shoot pictures of this great show as well as street scenes.
Huge parade in the streets of Puno
Paramis, a pueblo in Capachica Península. (Venancio’s house)
Sunset over Amantani Island and lake Titicaca from Capachica peninsula
In the pueblo of Paramis, Capachica Peninsula
Sunset over Titicaca lake from Venancio’s place (in Paramis, Capachica peninsula)
Gate at the summit of “Pachamama”, one of the main summit of Amantani Island
Vibrant traditional Bolivian dance costumes showcased during a cultural street event.
This image captures Bolivian dancers in traditional attire performing during a lively street festival, highlighting cultural heritage and vibrant costumes.
Puno’s parade
A lively street parade in Bolivia featuring dancers in vibrant, ornate costumes celebrating cultural heritage and community festivities.
Puno’s parade
A lively street scene featuring dancers in ornate costumes and masks celebrating cultural heritage during a festival parade.
In the streets of Puno
A woman in traditional Bolivian attire, surrounded by children and dancers during a lively street festival.
Young shepherd on the shore of Lake Titicaca in the pueblo of Paramis, Capachica Peninsula
A tranquil coastal scene featuring rocks, water, and a person walking along the shoreline, captured by Olivier Steiner Photography.
Puno’s parade
A lively group of dancers in bright, traditional costumes performing a cultural dance outdoors.
Puno’s parade
Vibrant children in traditional costumes participate in a cultural parade, highlighting colorful feathers, detailed embroidery, and festive attire.
Puno’s parade
A lively cultural dance parade featuring performers in ornate costumes and masks, celebrating heritage and tradition.
View over Titicaca Lake (Puno is on the right) from Capachica Peninsula.
A wide panoramic view of a coastal landscape featuring hills, sparse vegetation, and the ocean under a clear blue sky.
City parade in the streets of Puno
Vibrant city street with shops, pedestrians, and a parade of dancers, captured by Olivier Steiner Photography.
In the streets of Puno
A woman dressed in traditional clothing with a colorful woven bag, walking along an urban street scene.
Puno’s parade
Vivid image of two young boys dressed in traditional, elaborately decorated costumes during a cultural festival parade.
Puno’s parade
A group of dancers in vibrant traditional costumes performing a folk dance during a cultural festival outdoors.
Puno’s parade
A group of performers in elaborate, colorful costumes participate in a cultural parade, highlighting traditional attire and festive spirit.
In the streets of Puno
A street vendor sitting on the sidewalk, wearing a vibrant, multicolored blanket and a wide-brimmed hat, capturing local culture and daily life.
Puno’s parade
Children and teenagers dressed in vibrant traditional attire perform a cultural dance in a lively outdoor setting, capturing a festive celebration.
Puno’s parade
A group of dancers in bright, traditional attire performing a cultural dance on a busy street during a festival.
Gate at the summit of “Pachamama”, one of the main summit of Amantani Island
A historic stone archway built from rocks, overlooking the sea, capturing natural beauty and architectural charm.
Amantani Island from Capachica Peninsula
A stunning landscape of Lake Titicaca featuring calm waters, surrounding mountains, and a clear sky, captured by Olivier Steiner Photography.
One of the gates of Taquile Island on lake Titicaca
Scenic view of historic stone ruins with an arch, overlooking Lake Titicaca, capturing the beauty of Bolivian landscape and architecture.
Puno’s parade
Vibrant dragon dance with performers in elaborate costumes at a cultural festival, showcasing traditional artistry and celebration.
Sunset over Amantani Island and lake Titicaca from Capachica peninsula
A peaceful coastal landscape at sunset featuring a tranquil sea, rocky shores, and colorful sky, showcasing Olivier Steiner’s photography skills.
A group of dancers in bright, traditional costumes perform a lively dance on a busy street, capturing cultural celebration and community spirit.
This image showcases a lively street dance with performers dressed in colorful traditional costumes, highlighting cultural heritage and festive atmosphere.
Paramis, a pueblo in Capachica Península. (Venancio’s house)
A solitary, tall tree with layered foliage stands on a grassy slope beside a tranquil lake, with small houses and rolling hills in the background.
Puno’s parade
A woman in a bright red and white traditional Mexican dress performs a dance on the street, surrounded by people in festive attire and colorful surroundings.
In the streets of Puno
A man and a boy sit on the sidewalk in front of a yellow wall, capturing a candid moment in street photography.
Puno’s parade
A group of children in bright, traditional costumes participate in a lively cultural dance, showcasing colorful attire and energetic movements.
Puno’s parade
A group of dancers in traditional costumes performing a cultural dance outdoors, with a woman in a long skirt and hat leading the scene.
Puno’s parade
A lively street scene in La Paz, Bolivia, showcasing dancers in elaborate, colorful costumes during a cultural festival parade.
Taquile Island
A woman walking in front of colorful, rustic houses in a Bolivian mountain village, showcasing local architecture and culture.
Plaza de Arma of Puno during the city parade.
A bustling city square featuring historic church towers, a modern building, and a lively crowd under a partly cloudy sky.
Titicaca and the Cordillera Real in Bolivia from Amantani Island
A stunning coastal landscape captured by Olivier Steiner, showcasing terraced fields, ocean horizon, and dramatic sky.
The city and the dogs – La ville et les chiens – Vargas Llosa
A young boy in a suit holding a sign stands next to a large cartoon dog mascot during a lively parade in an urban setting.
Puno’s parade
A lively street scene featuring children and adults in traditional costumes participating in a cultural parade, showcasing local heritage and vibrant community spirit.
Sunset over Titicaca lake from Venancio’s place (in Paramis, Capachica peninsula)
A black and white landscape photograph showcasing a tranquil lakeside with boats, rocks, and a striking sky, emphasizing natural beauty and serenity.
Puno’s parade
A lively scene of children dressed in bright traditional costumes at a cultural festival, highlighting community celebration and cultural heritage.
In the streets of Puno
A lively outdoor gathering featuring people enjoying cake, drinks, and socializing during a festive event.
Puno’s parade
A lively carnival scene showcasing performers in vibrant red costumes and a striking, colorful mask, capturing the festive atmosphere and cultural celebration.
In the pueblo of Paramis, Capachica Peninsula
A young girl wearing a floral hat interacts with animal figurines outdoors, showcasing playful and creative photography.
On Taquile Island
A scenic mountain view featuring trees, a hillside, and a vibrant blue sky with wispy clouds, captured by Olivier Steiner Photography.
Amantani Island
This image features an old stone bell tower with a bell, surrounded by rustic buildings and trees, highlighting historical architecture and rural charm.
Puno’s parade
Vibrant Bolivian street festival featuring dancers in traditional costumes, capturing cultural heritage and lively community celebrations.
Puno’s parade
A group of dancers in bright blue costumes with silver accents perform in a crowded outdoor festival, capturing cultural celebration and community spirit.
Thirteen years ago, I set off on a small adventure with my young dog Dyno. Southern Colorado, autumn, the Rocky Mountains. A Haute Route in mind, a bad weather forecast, and a four-legged companion discovering the high country for the very first time. From that week I keep golden colours, an immense silence, and the memory of a bond just beginning.
Near Yellowstone National Park, across Montana and Wyoming, the Absaroka Mountains are offering an awesome playground… Here is a little description of a very small part of this huge wilderness area.
You might have thought about visiting Olympic National Park, but what about doing it in October, during the low season, when you can be sure to get a much wilder experience ?
– Full slide show at the bottom of the page – Some experiences are life changing and, when those are lived, one can get the feeling he has reached some kind of no return point. Clearly, there is a before…
